Sonoran Property Inspections

Home Inspections Prescott, Prescott Valley, Cottonwood, Scottsdale, Arizona

Happy Holidays

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Greetings from Prescott Valley, Arizona. Just want you to know that we are always here for you if you need a home inspection done, whether it is a holiday of not, and we look forward to working with you in the new year!  In the meantime, from all of us here at Sonoran Property Inspections (and by all of us I mean Jerry, Pam, and the Golden Retriever!) we wish you a warm and happy holiday season, and a peaceful and prosperous new year!  All we need now is just a little snow.

Improve Entryway When Selling Your House

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Since it is the first thing a buyer sees,  the entryway is an important space within a home. It sets the stage for the whole tour of the home. Buyers will form opinions on a home within seconds of opening that front door. Here are some ways to improve your entry.

Make the front door a focal point.

The door is the first thing visitors focus on at any home’s entryway, so make it special. Paint it a bold color or add gorgeous greenery via a seasonal wreath. You can complement the home’s style and make a statement within a reasonable budget.

Invest in stylish but functional furniture.

Create a welcoming vignette of furniture that beckons guests to the door. Design a space for dropping keys and handbags, and a place to sit and remove shoes. Think elegant console tables with drawers (that hide the clutter), woven baskets, and an antique rug. You can take these new goodies with you when you move too!

Add art to the space.

Artwork in an entryway can make a big impact. Hang a beautiful piece of artwork or photography on the wall opposite the door. Choose carefully: You don’t want to put off buyers with something overly quirky. A mirror is a great choice and will help the entryway appear larger.

Illuminate the entryway with bold lighting.

The right lighting will give a welcoming feel to the entry, while being highly functional. Add a stylish lamp to the console table, or if the home has high ceilings or a two-story stairwell, go for a beautiful chandelier or pendant light in a timeless style.

These are great tips even if you are NOT selling the home! So make that entry something special, and enjoy it while you are living there too.

 

Don’t Get Burned

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Don’t you hate it when you are in the shower and someone else in the house flushes a toilet and you get burned by hot water? I do test water temperature when I do a home inspection, but sometimes these fluctuations don’t show up until later.  So let’s talk a little about anti-scald valves.  Anti-scald valves, also known as tempering valves and mixing valves, mix cold water in with outgoing hot water so that the hot water that leaves a fixture is not hot enough to scald a person.

Facts and Figures

  • Scalds account for 20% of all burns.
  • More than 2,000 American children are scalded each year, mostly in the bathroom and kitchen.
  • Scalding and other types of burns require costly and expensive hospital stays, often involving skin grafts and plastic surgery.
  • Scalding may lead to additional injuries, such as falls and heart attacks, especially among the elderly.
  • Water that is 160º F can cause scalding in 0.5 seconds.

Unwanted temperature fluctuations are an annoyance and a safety hazard. When a toilet is flushed, for instance, cold water flows into the toilet’s tank and lowers the pressure in the cold-water pipes. If someone is taking a shower, they will suddenly feel the water become hotter as less cold water is available to the shower valve. By the same principle, the shower water will become colder when someone in the house uses the hot-water faucet. This condition is exacerbated by plumbing that’s clogged, narrow, or installed in showers equipped with low-flow or multiple showerheads. A sudden burst of hot water can cause serious burns, particularly in young children, who have thinner skin than adults. Also, a startling thermal shock – hot or cold – may cause a person to fall in the shower as he or she scrambles on the slippery surface to adjust the water temperature. The elderly and physically challenged are at particular risk.

Anti-scald valves mitigate this danger by maintaining water temperature at a safe level, even as pressures fluctuate in water supply lines. They look similar to ordinary shower and tub valves and are equipped with a special diaphragm or piston mechanism that immediately balances the pressure of the hot- and cold-water inputs, limiting one or the other to keep the temperature within a range of several degrees. As a side effect, the use of an anti-scald valve increases the amount of available hot water, as it is drawn more slowly from the water heater. Inspectors and homeowners may want to check with the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) to see if these safety measures are required in new construction in their area.

Installation of anti-scald valves is typically simple and inexpensive. Most models are installed in the hot-water line and require a cold-water feed. They also require a swing check valve on the cold-water feed line to prevent hot water from entering the cold-water system. They may be installed at the water heater to safeguard the plumbing for the whole building, or only at specific fixtures.

The actual temperature of the water that comes out of the fixture may be somewhat different than the target temperature set on the anti-scald valve. Such irregularities may be due to long, uninsulated plumbing lines or defects in the valve itself. Users may fine-tune the valve with a rotating mechanism that will allow the water to become hotter or colder, depending on which way it’s turned. Homeowners may contact an InterNACHI inspector (like me) or a qualified plumber if they have further questions or concerns.

In summary, anti-scald valves are used to reduce water temperature fluctuations that may otherwise inconvenience or harm unsuspecting building occupants.

What NOT to Store in the Garage

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When I do a home inspection (Prescott, Prescott Valley, or Scottsdale and Phoenix areas – it doesn’t matter where the garage is located), I often see items stored in the garage that shouldn’t be there. While this information is NOT part of the home inspection report, I figured I would take time now to help educate home owners on storage tips for this area.

Rarely used objects often end up in the attic, basement or garage. But storing your stuff where it seems most convenient isn’t always the best, or safest, idea. Some items are too fragile for these environments, while others could even become dangerous in unregulated conditions.

Take a look at these home storage tips to keep your house and possessions protected.

What to Keep Out of the Garage

For the most part, objects like garden tools or car supplies do fine in the garage. However, fluctuating temperatures make the space off limits for anything that’s too delicate, combustible or that may attract pests.

Some common household items that don’t hold well:

  • Photographs — Moisture, heat and pollutants from your car can cause photos to fade and crinkle over time.
  • Flammables — Sparking engines should be kept far away from potentially leaky propane tanks. Instead of putting them in an enclosed space, always store tanks outside on a flat surface.
  • Perishables — Insects and rodents can make a meal out of almost anything. This includes fabrics, paper and even firewood. Unless you have an outdoor fridge, bring any perishables, even canned food items, indoors.

Basement and Attic Hazards

Attics and basements are bonus storage spaces in many homes, but each comes with some risk from the elements.

In the basement, homeowners need to protect against excess moisture, mold and flooding. Store anything that’s not weatherproof off the ground in a sturdy container.

Attics tend to experience extreme temperature spikes, so anything sensitive that may warp or melt shouldn’t be placed here. Holiday decor, clothing and luggage typically do okay, but it’s better to err on the side of caution.

As a general rule, anything that’s sentimental or financially valuable should be kept safely in the temperature-controlled parts of your home.

 

Home Inspection – Ceiling Fans

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Most of the homes I inspect in Arizona have ceiling fans, and properly installed and maintained ceiling fans can inexpensively cool or warm building occupants.  Like other fans, it is used to provide comfort for building occupants by circulating air within a room.

Fun Facts About Ceiling FansMost household ceiling fans have four or five blades.

  • An adult human cannot be decapitated by a ceiling fan, according to the TV show “MythBusters.”  A powerful, industrial-strength fan might be able to damage a skull or slice a person’s neck, however – so don’t test this myth (just in case – ha).
  • Ceiling fans were first used in the United States in the 1860s. They were powered by a system of belts driven by a stream of running water.
  • Unlike air conditioners, fans do not actually cool the air, which is why they merely waste electricity when they circulate air in an unoccupied room (yes, I am guilty of this sometimes).

Ceiling Fan Components

A ceiling fan is comprised of the following parts:

  • electric motor:  varies with the size of the fan and its application;
  • blades:  typically, two to six spinning, precision-weighted blades made from metal, wood or plastic; industrial fans typically have three blades, while residential models have four or five;
  • blade irons:  connect the blades to the motor;
  • safety cable: on heavy fans, these are required to hold the fan in place in case the support housing fails;
  • flywheel:  connects the blade irons to the motor;
  • ceiling mount:  designs include ball-in-socket and J-hook;
  • downrod:  used where ceiling fans are suspended from high ceilings;
  • motor housing:  protects the fan motor from dust and its surroundings; may also be decorative; and
  • lamps: may be installed above, below or inside the motor housing.

Common Fan Defects

  • The fan falls. A ceiling fan that breaks free from its ceiling mount can be deadly. Fans must be supported by an electrical junction box listed for that use, according to the National Electric Code, and a fan brace box will need to be installed. While a particular junction box might support a fully assembled fan, during operation, it will exert additional forces (notably, torsion) that can cause the support to fail. Homeowners often overlook this distinction by carelessly replacing light fixtures with ceiling fans without upgrading the junction box, which should clearly state whether it’s rated to hold a ceiling fan.
  • The fan wobbles. This is a common and distracting defect that is usually caused when fan blades are misaligned from one another. Specific problems stem from minute differences in the size or weight of individual blades, warping, bent blade irons, or blades or blade irons that are not screwed in tightly enough. The ceiling mount may also be loose. Wobbling is not caused by the ceiling or the particular way that the fan was mounted. Wobbling will not cause the fan to fall, and there have been no such reports. Wobbling can, however, cause light fixture covers or shades to loosen and potentially fall. These items should be securely attached, with all screws tightly set in place. An easy way to tell if the blades are not on the same plane is to hold a yardstick or ruler against the ceiling and measure the distance that the tip of each blade is from the ceiling by manually pushing the blades. A homeowner can carefully bend the misaligned blade back into place. Blades can also be corrected in this way if measurement reveals that they are not equidistant from one another.
  • There is inadequate floor-to-ceiling blade clearance. No part of the fan blades of a residential ceiling fan (usually having four or more blades) should be closer than 7 feet from the floor in order to prevent inadvertent contact with the blades. Downward air movement is maximized when the fan blades are around 8 or 9 feet from the floor. For high ceilings, the fan may be hung to a desired height. Low-profile fan models are available for ceilings that are lower than 8 feet from the floor. Also, fan blades should be at least 18 inches from walls. For commercial ceiling fans (usually having three blades), no part of the fan blades should be closer than 10 feet from the floor in order to prevent inadvertent contact with the blades.  Underwriters Laboratories UL 507 Section 70.2.1 says:

    “The blades of a ceiling-suspended fan shall be located at least 3.05 m (10 feet) above the floor when the fan is installed as intended.”

Underwriters Laboratories makes exceptions if the fan blade edges are thick and the fan is turning slowly.
  • Blades are turning in the wrong direction. In the winter months, the leading edge of the fan’s blades should be lower than the trailing edge in order to produce a gentle updraft, which forces warm air near the ceiling down into the occupied space below. In the summer, the leading edge of the fan’s blades should be higher as the fan spins counter-clockwise to cool occupants with a wind-chill effect. On most models, the fan direction can be reversed with an electric switch located on the outside of the metal housing, but the same effect can be achieved on other models by unscrewing and remounting the fan blades.
  • An indoor fan is not designed for exterior use. Ordinary indoor ceiling fans are unsafe to use outdoors or in humid environments, such as bathrooms.  They will wear out quickly. Fans that are rated “damp” are safe for humid environments, but they, too, should never be used where they might come into contact with liquid water. Only fans that are rated “wet” are safe for such use, as they incorporate features such as all-weather, UV-resistant blades, sealed motors, rust-resistant housing, and stainless steel hardware.
As always, call us if you have any questions!

 

Central Air-Conditioning System Inspection

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It is heating up out here in Arizona – even here in Prescott, but especially in the Phoenix area. Now is the time to make sure your air conditioning is ready to handle the heat!  As part of a home inspection (in the Phoenix and Prescott areas) we do take a close look at the HVAC units, and if in doubt we will suggest an HVAC company come take a closer look. We also have routine maintenance done on our own home’s unit since a building’s central air-conditioning system must be periodically inspected and maintained in order to function properly. While an annual inspection performed by a trained professional is recommended, homeowners can do a lot of the work themselves by following the tips offered in this guide.Exterior Condenser Unit

Clean the Exterior Condenser Unit and Components
The exterior condenser unit is the large box located on the side of the building that is designed to push heat from the inside of the building to the outdoors. Inside of the box are coils of pipe that are surrounded by thousands of thin metal “fins” that allow the coils more surface area to exchange heat. Follow these tips when cleaning the exterior condenser unit and its inner components — after turning off power to the unit!
  • Remove any leaves, spider webs and other debris from the unit’s exterior. Trim foliage back several feet from the unit to ensure proper air flow.
  • Remove the cover grille to clean any debris from the unit’s interior. A garden hose can be helpful for this task.
  • Straighten any bent fins with a tool called a fin comb.
  • Add lubricating oil to the motor. Check your owner’s manual for specific instructions.
  • Clean the evaporator coil and condenser coil at least once a year.  When they collect dirt, they may not function properly.
Inspect the Condensate Drain Line
Condensate drain lines collect condensed water and drain it away from the unit.  They are located on the side of the inside fan unit. Sometimes there are two drain lines—a primary drain line that’s built into the unit, and a secondary drain line that can drain if the first line becomes blocked. Homeowners can inspect the drain line by using the following tips, which take very little time and require no specialized tools:
  • Inspect the drain line for obstructions, such as algae and debris. If the line becomes blocked, water will back up into the drain pan and overflow, potentially causing a safety hazard or water damage to your home.
  • Make sure the hoses are secured and fit properly.
Clean the Air Filter
The air filter slides out for easy replacement
Air filters remove pollen, dust and other particles that would otherwise circulate indoors. Most filters are typically rectangular in shape and about 20 inches by 16 inches, and about 1 inch thick. They slide into the main ductwork near the inside fan unit. The filter should be periodically washed or replaced, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions. A dirty air filter will not only degrade indoor air quality, but it will also strain the motor to work harder to move air through it, increasing energy costs and reducing energy efficiency. The filter should be replaced monthly during heavy use during the cooling seasons. You may need to change the filter more often if the air conditioner is in constant use, if building occupants have respiratory problems,if  you have pets with fur, or if dusty conditions are present.
 
Cover the Exterior Unit

When the cooling season is over, you should cover the exterior condenser unit in preparation for winter. If it isn’t being used, why expose it to the elements? This measure will prevent ice, leaves and dirt from entering the unit, which can harm components and require additional maintenance in the spring. A cover can be purchased, or you can make one yourself by taping together plastic trash bags. Be sure to turn the unit off before covering it.

Close the Air-Distribution Registers
Air-distribution registers are duct openings in ceilings, walls and floors where cold air enters the room. They should be closed after the cooling season ends in order to keep warm air from back-flowing out of the room during the warming season. Pests and dust will also be unable to enter the ducts during the winter if the registers are closed. These vents typically can be opened or closed with an adjacent lever or wheel.  Remember to open the registers in the spring before the cooling season starts.  Also, make sure they are not blocked by drapes, carpeting or furniture.
In addition, homeowners should practice the following strategies in order to keep their central air conditioning systems running properly:
  • Have the air-conditioning system inspected by a professional each year before the start of the cooling season.
  • Reduce stress on the air conditioning system by enhancing your home’s energy efficiency. Switch from incandescent lights to compact fluorescents, for instance, which produce less heat.
In summary, any homeowner can perform periodic inspections and maintenance to their home’s central air-conditioning system.

Carbon Monoxide in the Home

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As part of any home inspection we look at the proper installation and venting of appliances and fireplaces, but it is important for all homeowners to educate themselves concerning carbon monoxide. Be sure to have your home inspector look for these danger signs if you are buying or selling a home.
Carbon Monoxide:
Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless, tasteless, yet highly toxic gas has been used by humans since prehistoric times.  Each year, according to CPSC, there are more than 200 carbon monoxide deaths related to the use of all types of combustion appliances in the home. Exposure to carbon monoxide reduces the blood’s ability to carry oxygen. Often, a person or an entire family may not recognize that carbon monoxide is poisoning them. The chemical is odorless, and some of the symptoms are similar to common illnesses. This is particularly dangerous because carbon monoxide’s deadly effects will not be recognized until it is too late to take action against them. Carbon monoxide exposures especially affect unborn babies, infants, and people with anemia or a history of heart disease. Breathing low levels of the chemical can cause fatigue and increase chest pain in people with chronic heart disease. Breathing higher levels of carbon monoxide causes symptoms such as headaches, dizziness, and weakness in healthy people. Carbon monoxide also causes sleepiness, nausea, vomiting, confusion and disorientation. At very high levels, it causes loss of consciousness and death.

Here are some home inspection precautions that you can take to prevent poisoning from carbon monoxide:

  • Make sure appliances are installed and operated according to the manufacturer’s instructions and local building codes.
  • Never service fuel-burning appliances without proper knowledge or tools.
  • Never operate a portable generator or any other gasoline engine powered tool in or close to an enclosed space such as a garage, home or other building.
  • Install a carbon monoxide detector.
  • Never use portable fuel burning equipment inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent unless it is specifically designed for use in an enclosed space.
  • Never burn charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent.
  • Never leave a car running in an attached garage.
  • Never use gas appliances such as ranges, ovens, or clothes dryer to heat your home.
  • Never cover the bottom of natural gas or propane ovens with aluminum foil.  Doing this blocks the combustion air flow through the appliance and can produce carbon monoxide.
  • During home renovation, ensure that appliance vents and chimneys are not blocked by tarps or debris.  Make sure appliances are in proper working order when renovations are complete.

A carbon monoxide detector is the best way to determine when carbon monoxide is present.  Different from smoke detectors, they do not need to be placed near ceiling level.  The best place to keep a carbon monoxide alarm is close to heaters and other gas powered equipment.  If the alarm detects carbon monoxide, it will sound, giving people a chance to safely leave the structure before too much exposure. If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off never ignore the alarm.  Get outside as soon as possible and call your local emergency services.  Carbon monoxide alarms are reliable and can be purchased at a local hardware store or at any home improvement store.  Also make sure to have a home inspector check chimneys and flues for blockages, corrosion, partial and complete disconnections and also loose connections.

Home Inspection – Windows

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One part of any Phoenix or Prescott area home inspection we do is to look at, and operate, all of the accessible windows. This includes the inspector looking for signs of window seal failure. If multiple-pane windows appear misty or foggy, it means that the seal protecting the window assembly has failed. Let’s take a closer look at how window condensation happens, and what it may mean on a home inspection report.
First of all, Condensation is the accumulation of liquid water on relatively cold surfaces.  Almost all air contains water vapor, the gas phase of water composed of tiny water droplets. The molecules in warm air are far apart from one another and allow the containment of a relatively large quantity of water vapor. As air cools, its molecules get closer together and squeeze the tiny vapor droplets closer together, as well. A critical temperature, known as the dew point, exists where these water droplets will be forced so close together that they merge into visible liquid in a process called condensation.

Double-pane windows have a layer of gas (usually argon or air) trapped between two panes of glass that acts as insulation to reduce heat loss through the window. Other types of gas used in this space have various effects on heat gain or loss through the window. Some windows also have a thin film installed between panes that separates the space between the panes into two spaces, further reducing heat loss and heat gain through the window.

Silica Desiccant
A desiccant is an absorbent material designed to maintain dryness in the space it protects. In a double-paned window, silica pellets inside the aluminum perimeter strip absorb moisture from any incoming air that enters the space between the panes. If not for the silica desiccant, any moisture in the space between the panes would condense on the glass as the glass cools below the dew point temperature.

Silica gel has an immense surface area, approximately 7,200 square feet per gram, which allows it to absorb large amounts of water vapor. As the sealant protecting this space fails over time, increasing amounts of moisture-containing air will enter the space between the panes, and the silica pellets will eventually become saturated and will no longer be able to prevent condensation from forming.

Why Double-Paned Windows Fail:  Solar (Thermal) Pumping
Although double-paned windows appear to be stable, they actually experience a daily cycle of expansion and contraction caused by thermal pumping. Sunlight heats the airspace between the panes and causes the gas there to heat up and expand, pressurizing the space between the panes. At night, the window cools and the space between the panes contracts. This motion acts like the bellows of a forge and is called thermal pumping.
Over time, the constant pressure fluctuations caused by thermal pumping will stress the seal. Eventually, the seal will develop small fractures that will slowly grow in size, allowing increasing amounts of infiltration and exfiltration of air from the space between the panes.

Failure Factors

Windows on the sunny side of a home will experience larger temperature swings, resulting in greater amounts of thermal pumping, seal stress and failure rates.

Vinyl window frames have a higher coefficient of expansion resulting in greater long-term stress on the double-pane assembly, and a higher failure rate. Windows also experience batch failure, which describes production runs of windows, especially vinyl windows, that are defective, meaning that the pane assemblies have been manufactured with seals that have small defects that will cause the window to fail prematurely.

The Nature of Damage

If it’s allowed to continue, window condensation will inevitably lead to irreversible physical window damage. This damage can appear in the following two ways:

  • riverbedding.  Condensed vapor between the glass panes will form droplets that run down the length of the window. Water that descends in this fashion has the tendency to follow narrow paths and carve grooves into the glass surface. These grooves are formed in a process similar to canyon formation.
  • silica haze.  Once the silica gel has been saturated, it will be eroded by passing air currents and accumulate as white “snowflakes” on the window surface. It is believed that if this damage is present, the window must be replaced.

Detecting Failure

Condensation is not always visible. If the failure is recent, a failed window may not be obvious, since condensation doesn’t usually form until the window is heated by direct sunlight. Windows in the shade may show no evidence of failure, so your inspector will disclaim responsibility for discovering failed double-paned windows.

 

Recommendations for Failed Windows

According to industry experts, the glazing assembly can be replaced  approximately 75% of the time.  Occasionally, the sashes must be replaced, and only about 5% of those cases require that the entire window be replaced.

Be aware that there are companies that claim to be able to repair misty windows through a process known as “defogging.”

This repair method proceeds in the following order:

  1. A hole is drilled into the window, usually from the outside, and a cleaning solution is sprayed into the air chamber.
  2. The solution and any other moisture are sucked out through a vacuum.
  3. A defogger device is permanently inserted into the hole that will allow the release of moisture during thermal pumping.

There is currently a debate as to whether this process is a suitable repair for windows that have failed, or if it merely removes the symptom of this failure. Condensation appears between double-paned windows when the window is compromised, and removal of this water will not fix the seal itself. A window “repaired” in this manner, although absent of condensation, might not provide any additional insulation. This method is still fairly new and opinions about its effectiveness range widely. Regardless, “defogging” certainly allows for cosmetic improvement, which is of some value to homeowners. It may also reduce the potential for damage caused by condensation in the form of mold or rot.  Some skepticism exists about the effectiveness and cost effectiveness of this method of repair.

In summary, condensation in double-paned windows indicates that the glazing assembly has failed and needs repair or replacement. Visible condensation can damage glazing and is the main indication of sealant failure.

Fireplace Safety

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It is FINALLY starting to cool off here in Prescott, Arizona!  As a home inspector (providing inspections in the Prescott area as well the Phoenix metro area) I see some fireplaces used in an unsafe manner. So I wanted to use this time to help educate you on what you should and shouldn’t use your fireplaces for, and what type of fireplace fuel is best. Stay safe this holiday season!

Fireplaces and wood stoves are designed to burn only one type of fuel. Used as all-purpose incinerators, these devices can pose the following hazards:

  • Harmful vapors can vent into the living space. Even the most efficient fireplaces will vent directly into the living space while they’re opened and closed for cleaning and refueling, exposing everyone in the house to potentially dangerous fumes.Firewood drying out in the sun
  • Harmful vapors will vent to the outdoors. Most newer fireplaces and wood stoves do an excellent job of funneling smoke and fumes to the outdoors, but the problem doesn’t end there; this pollution persists, contaminating household and environmental air.
  • Burning inappropriate fuel can cause mechanical damage. Chimneys can become lined with residue from inappropriate items, which may lead to a dangerous chimney fire. The fumes from certain items will quickly wear out sensitive components, such as catalytic combustors in wood stoves.

Read the following guidelines to better understand what can and cannot be safely burned in a residential fireplace or wood stove.

What can be burned in a fireplace?

  • dried, cut firewood. An adequate fuel supply will consist of a mixture of hardwoods, such as maple and oak, and softwoods, such as fir and pine. Softwoods ignite quickly and are useful in the early stages of the fire, while hardwoods provide a longer-lasting fire, and are best used after preheating the chimney. Despite the different burning characteristics of hardwoods and softwoods, which can be attributed to differences in density, the heat-energy released by burning wood is the same, regardless of species. To dry out wood, it should be stacked in an open area so the sun can warm the pieces and the breezes can carry away the moisture. Poplar, spruce and other softwoods generally dry quickly, as do wood that has been split small. Adequately seasoned wood has a moisture content of less than 20%, which can be checked using the following indicators:
    • The wood has darkened from white or a cream color to yellow or grey.
    • There are cracks or checks in the end grain.
    • A hollow sound is produced when two pieces of wood are banged together.
    • You can split a piece and feel if the new surface is damp or dry.
    • The wood does not hiss while burning.
    • You can check its moisture content with a moisture meter.Used pallets burn efficiently, but you must be sure they are free from chemical treatment
  • pallets. Generally, pallets are safe to burn in fireplaces, although those that are treated with the fumigant methyl bromide (labeled with the initials MB) are unsafe to burn. Also, pallets may have been exposed to a variety of chemicals while they were in use. Aside from these concerns, pallets produce a hot flame because they’re usually very dry and their segments are thin. Be careful to check for nails while cutting pallets, as they may damage a saw blade. You may also wind up with nails in your ash, which should be disposed of far from roads and driveways.
  • fallen tree limbs. These can generally be collected and used for kindling, provided they have been given time to dry.
  • wood collected from housing developments. If it is truly trash and not someone’s property (including the housing contractor’s), using scavenged wood that has been cleared away for housing developments is good for burning.  Try to obtain it before the non-lumber grade wood is pushed into massive piles and burned as a means of disposal by the contractor.
  • fire logs. These artificial logs burn relatively cleanly and release less ash than their natural wood counterparts.

What should never be burned in a fireplace?

  • painted wood. Paint contains heavy metals, such as lead, chromium and titanium, which are used to make the different colors. These metals, especially lead, can be toxic even in small quantities if inhaled. If you’re unsure if your paint has lead, be sure to consult with your InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection.
  • pressure-treated wood. Wood is commonly made resistant to fungus and insects through the addition of copper, chromate and arsenic, in a process known as CCA treatment. CCA treatment places roughly 27 grams of arsenic in every 12-foot 2×6, which is sufficient to kill about 250 adults, which is why it is illegal in the U.S. to burn pressure-treated wood. Vaporized CCA wood, known as fly ash, is extremely toxic; in one case, as reported by the American Medical Association, a family was stricken with seizures, hair loss, debilitating headaches, blackouts and nosebleeds from fly ash released when they unknowingly used CCA wood to burn in their fireplace. Even the family’s houseplants and fish succumbed to the toxic fumes.
  • plywood, particleboard, chipboard or OSB. These manmade woods release formaldehyde, and potentially hydrochloric acid or dioxin, when burned. Some states have outlawed the incineration of some or all of these artificial wood products.
  • rotted, diseased or moldy wood. This wood will not burn as long as normal wood, may produce bad smells when burned, and could bring insects into the house.
  • damp wood. Wood that has a moisture content higher than 20% will burn inefficiently and will contribute to a greater accumulation of creosote in the chimney, as well as air pollution.
  • allergenic plants.  Urushiol, which is the chemical that induces the typically minor allergic reaction when skin is exposed to poison ivy, poison sumac or poison oak, is far more dangerous when inhaled. Urushiol is not destroyed by fire and can quickly cause life-threatening respiratory distress if any of these plants are burned.
  • dryer lint. While it’s often used effectively as a fire-starter, lint can contain a wide array of dangerous chemicals that come from your clothes and fabric softener.
  • trash. Never burn household garbage, as it contains a range of potentially hazardous materials and chemicals that react in unpredictable ways when burned together. Newspaper ink, plastics, aluminum foil, plastic baggies, and whatever else constitutes your particular trash can create a deadly chemical cocktail.
  • driftwood. Wood found on the beach of an ocean or salty lake will release salt when burned, which will quickly corrode any metal and etch the glass of a wood stove or fireplace. Catalytic converters are especially vulnerable to salt corrosion. In addition to potential damage to the stove or fireplace, the EPA claims that driftwood releases toxic chemicals when burned.
In summary, use only approved and appropriate fuel to burn in your fireplace or wood stove, because certain items should never be burned because they can cause problems ranging from minor irritation to a hazardous health threat to your family.

Water Heater Maintenance

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When we do a home inspection we look at the home’s water heater to make sure it is installed properly and well maintained. Keeping the system well maintained can help you when you go to sell your home too. We inspect homes in the Prescott area as well as the northern part of Phoenix metro (Scottsdale, Cave Creek, Carefree, Anthem).  But here are maintenance tips you can do yourself.

Storage tank water heaters are the type of appliance that can hum along for years. Once installed, they don’t need constant attention. However, they do require maintenance to keep them running at peak efficiency. These are mostly simple tasks that you can do yourself, but you can also hire a pro to perform regular maintenance for you. Here are some tips on how you can keep your water heater working proficiently, and how often it will need maintenance.

Understanding Your Water Heater

Be sure to review the owner’s manual that came with your water heater. It usually spells out necessary maintenance tasks, as well as other important information, such as safety precautions and size specifications. When in doubt, refer to the manual. If you can’t find the manual, check the manufacturer’s website for instructions on obtaining a copy.

Consult a professional before attempting any maintenance tasks, and make sure that the water line and the power to the water heater are safely shut off before beginning.

Ongoing Maintenance

Keep the area around the water heater free of clutter. Gas heaters have vents at the bottom that must be kept clear to aid in the heating element combustion. Never store anything with flammable vapors, such as gasoline or paint thinner, near a gas water heater. Providing a clear space around the appliance makes it easy to get to the water shutoff in an emergency. It also gives repairmen room to work on the heater, should a service call be necessary.

Every Few Months

Drain some of the tank’s water to remove the sediment that collects on the bottom of the tank. All incoming water contains sediment that, over time, can hinder the performance of your water heater. The amount you need to drain will depend on the condition of the water.

  1. Shut off the power. For electric heaters, shut the unit down completely. For gas heaters, move the control dial to “pilot.
  2. Turn off the cold water supply to the tank.
  3. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve located near the bottom of the tank, and then run the hose to a drain.
  4. Open a hot water faucet in a nearby sink and leave it open.
  5. Open the water heater’s drain valve. Caution: Be careful. The water will be very hot.
  6. Drain the tank until the water runs clear. This may take a few minutes or longer.

    Pro Tip: Plumbers will often turn the water on and off a few times to help stir up the sediment at the bottom of the tank.

  7. Once the water is clear, close the drain valve and turn on the water supply. You’ll know the tank is full when water is flowing through the faucet you left open earlier.
  8. When the tank is full, turn the power back on.

The frequency of this procedure will depend on the condition of your water. If the water is perfectly clear from the start, you probably don’t need to drain your tank often. If the water is very dirty, you may need to drain it more frequently.

Annually

Test the temperature/pressure-relief valve. It’s located near the top of the storage tank and should be attached to a long tube that extends almost to the bottom of the tank. The valve is designed to relieve pressure that builds up above acceptable levels inside the tank.

  1. Place a small bucket under the extension tube.
  2. Lift the valve up, and then push the lever back into position to close the valve. Caution: Stand back because hot water will be released from the valve.
  3. If there is no release of pressure in the form of air and/or water, the valve may be defective. Consult a plumber to have it fixed.

Check to make sure the venting system is operating properly on your gas water heater. On top of the tank is a draft hood raised above the flue, which is located inside the tank. The hood should be attached to connectors that run to the chimney. If the flue is not drawing adequately, gases that should be going up the chimney could be lingering into the room.

  1. Turn the temperature controls up so that the burner starts. Wait a few minutes to give the unit time to get going.
  2. Place your fingers near the opening between the hood and the top of the tank. If you feel air brush across your fingers and up the draft hood, the flue is drawing properly, so you can reset the water to normal operating temperature.
  3. If you don’t feel air, the flue may not be drawing.  Black soot around the top of the tank and the vent hood is also a sign that system is not venting properly. There could be a couple of reasons for the problem, including blockage in the chimney.  To be safe, shut down the unit and call in a professional to inspect the system.

Every Few Years

Check the anode rod, and replace it, if necessary.  The rod is usually made of aluminum, magnesium, zinc, or a combination of corrodible metals, and is suspended inside the tank. Its purpose is to attract any corrosive elements in the water. The theory is that any corrosion that attacks the rod will not attack the inside walls of the tank. Eventually, corrosion will get the best of the rod, and a new one must take its place.

  1. Turn off the power to the water heater, and shut off the water.
  2. Drain off 4 or 5 gallons of water through the drain valve. This will help prevent water splashing up on you as you remove the rod. It is not necessary to drain the entire tank.
  3. Locate the rod. It’s often threaded to the top of the tank. You may see it right away, or you may need to consult your manual for its location.
  4. To remove the rod, you will need a ratchet with a 1-1/16-inch socket. Have a helper hold the tank steady while you loosen the rod, and then carefully pull it out.
  5. If there are sections of the rod missing, you should replace the rod. If necessary, cut the new rod to match the size of the old one. Apply some plumber’s tape to the threads of the new rod, and then carefully lower it into the tank and tighten it.
  6. Turn the water on and wait for the tank to fill up again. Then, turn the power to the water heater back on.

Keeping your water heater running at optimal performance can save you from needing to replace the unit more often than necessary. Performing regular maintenance will ultimately help extend the life of your water heater, which should be a priority for all homeowners.